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四针床全成形毛衫移圈工艺及其应用 预览

Loop transfer process and its application on four-needle bed full fashioned knitting machine
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摘要 为研究四针床全成形编织技术,更好地开发全成形产品,以四针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX3设计系统为依托,对四针床全成形毛衫移圈工艺进行研究。在探讨6种移圈编织工艺技术的基础上,分析移圈工艺在全成形毛衫结构、组织上的应用。研究表明:移圈工艺通过翻针、摇床动作互相协作来实现;前下、后下针床线圈横移要分别借助后上、前上针床执行翻针;同一编织行存在不同针数、方向摇床时,遵循先小针位后大针位、先左后右原则。移圈工艺在结构上应用可改变圆筒编织横向宽度,实现织物补洞、开口编织、线圈平收以及多个圆筒或衣片的拼合;在组织上应用可形成镂空、绞花效果。研究成果为全成形毛衫的生产与开发提供了理论依据。 In order to study the technology of four-needle bed full fashioned knitting machine and promote the development of the full fashioned garment.loop transfer process of sweater based on the fourneedle bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system was studied.First of all,6 kinds of knitting technology reflecting the loop transfer process was discussed,and then the application of loop transfer process in the structure and organization of the full fashioned garment was analyzed.It was concluded that the loop transfer process was realized through the cooperation of rib transfer and rocking bed.The rib transfer in anterior inferior needle bed and posterior inferior needle bed should be carried out with the aid of posterior superior needle bed and anterior superior needle bed respectively.The same knitting course has different needle numbers and direction rocking,followed by the principle of first small needle position after large needle position,first left and right back.The application of loop transfer process can change the transverse width of the cylinder in structure,realize the fabric repair,opening knitting,loop flat narrowing,and the combination of several cylinders or clothes.The application of loop transfer process can form the effect of hollow-out and cable stitch in organization.The research results provide a theoretical basis for the production and development of the full fashioned garment.
作者 王盼 吴志明 WANG Pan;WU Zhiming(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处 《毛纺科技》 CAS 北大核心 2019年第7期52-56,共5页 Wool Textile Journal
基金 国家自然科学基金(61772238) 国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题(2018-28).
关键词 四针床电脑横机 全成形毛衫 移圈工艺 结构 组织 four-bed computerized flat knitting machine full fashioned garment loop transfer process structure organization
作者简介 第一作者:王盼,硕士生,主要研究方向为全成形产品编织工艺;通信作者:吴志明,教授,硕士,E-mail:wxwuzm@163.com。
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